Zinal Rothorn, Switzerland
The next day we were off early in the dark, to make the most of the frozen snow – the night before we had scouted the route ahead and had no difficulty in finding and following the tracks up the glacier and fore peak from the hut. As the sun started to throw a pale light over everything we were walking along a well defined snow ridge heading for the rocks below the Gabel Notch.
The route was highlighted by narrow bands of snow, however we knew there a sting… to get from the ridge to the slight depression leading up to the notch, we had to traverse a head wall of packed snow.. Not too bad this early, but would present some issues later in the day when everything was softer.
The gulley was a simple grade 1 push and we charged up it without a hitch. At the notch things got a little more technical, we roped up properly, and climbed the next few pitches up the ridge to the summit ridge. Things got easier on the summit ridge, with all the practice and fitness from the previous days we were soon on the top.
The sun was shining and things were superb, and more importantly for the first time this trip we had beaten the guide book time (always an indicator of how well things are going).
We dropped down to the Gable notch using a couple of abseils, and rattled on down the gully, as the snow was softening – it was difficult to not think about how much harder it was for the people just going up than it had been when we were ascending an hour or so before. The traverse to the ridge tightened the buttock muscles, and before we knew it we were sliding down through the bergscrund at the start of the snow dome and just round the corner from the hut.
Such a great feeling basking in the sun, knowing you had successfully negotiated a classic route in perfect conditions. However not everything was going our way! The next day we had planned to make an attempt on the Obergabelhorn, however all afternoon one party after another was coming in having failed to force a route through from Wellencoup. This was not good and we did not feel we were experienced enough to break trail on an unknown route.
We decided to give it another day and changed target for the next day - we would go to the Trifthorn. This "Little" peak sat at the head of the glacier behind the hut.
The next day we were off early in the dark, to make the most of the frozen snow – the night before we had scouted the route ahead and had no difficulty in finding and following the tracks up the glacier and fore peak from the hut. As the sun started to throw a pale light over everything we were walking along a well defined snow ridge heading for the rocks below the Gabel Notch.
The route was highlighted by narrow bands of snow, however we knew there a sting… to get from the ridge to the slight depression leading up to the notch, we had to traverse a head wall of packed snow.. Not too bad this early, but would present some issues later in the day when everything was softer.
The gulley was a simple grade 1 push and we charged up it without a hitch. At the notch things got a little more technical, we roped up properly, and climbed the next few pitches up the ridge to the summit ridge. Things got easier on the summit ridge, with all the practice and fitness from the previous days we were soon on the top. 
We dropped down to the Gable notch using a couple of abseils, and rattled on down the gully, as the snow was softening – it was difficult to not think about how much harder it was for the people just going up than it had been when we were ascending an hour or so before. The traverse to the ridge tightened the buttock muscles, and before we knew it we were sliding down through the bergscrund at the start of the snow dome and just round the corner from the hut.
Such a great feeling basking in the sun, knowing you had successfully negotiated a classic route in perfect conditions. However not everything was going our way! The next day we had planned to make an attempt on the Obergabelhorn, however all afternoon one party after another was coming in having failed to force a route through from Wellencoup. This was not good and we did not feel we were experienced enough to break trail on an unknown route.
We decided to give it another day and changed target for the next day - we would go to the Trifthorn. This "Little" peak sat at the head of the glacier behind the hut.