17 July 1989

Allalainhorn, Switzerland


The next morning we were up early, heading for the Allalainhorn no real route finding issues, just up the glacier behind the hut to the col, along the ridge working the way to the peak. It is only just over 4,000m and would seem like a good warm-up route.

Alan and I headed up the glacier, and had some really good views of the sun coming up first over the Matterhorn, then the Breithorn. As we go towards the col, the slope got steeper, and I was starting to feel the effects of the day before. By the time we had struggled up to the col, I was in desperate need of a long rest. A long drink and few snacks did not have much of an effect, so by the time Nobby and Sarah had arrived I was of the opinion that this was to be the limit of my achievements this day. Alan went on with the others, and I settled in for an extended stay.
The route went along to the top of the ridge, and then dropped down to the Allalainjoch before the summit peak. The ridge was quite friable, and steeply down, followed by a couple of gendarmes – not difficult, but I still think that I would have delayed everyone and suffered more the following day.
Waiting was difficult, but I did not want to head back over the glacier after the issues earlier in my alpine experiences, and also because I had made arrangements to wait there. Still it gave me some experience digging a snow hole.

Much later than I had calculated I saw then coming up the ridge, it had been a little more difficult and longer than they had thought. We then strolled back to the hut, without incident.

That night there was much soul searching and was concerned about what was to happen the next day. Gladly I decided to sleep on it. Eventually many years later I would reach the summit, although on skis and from the Saas Fee side.