25 July 1989

Chapelle de la Gliere, Chamonix


So after a day of travelling we were settled into the back end of a campsite near Les Praz, the Argentierre one being full. Ideal for the Index cable car, but a really tight squeeze.

The next day the weather was kind and we had bright sun. We took the first cable car we could and headed up into the Aiguilles Rouge, and specifically for the Chapelle de la Gliere … I had seen this from the Index the year before and was intrigued enough to want to go back to it.
The hike around from the top lift was simple, but finding the start was more troublesome, however soon we were heading up the first pitch towards the ridge with fantastic views back down the valley. Not long before we were heading across the roof of the nave on a very sharp edge with some classic shots against the sky line.
After this airey traverse we were then climbing up the spire.. a very traditional tower climb. The top was roomy enough for us and the previous party, but moving around required coordinated action.
The route down was several abseils onto the col then a traverse onto the step behind the index. From here it was simple to get back to the cable car.

We were racing time to reach the chair lift and only just made it in tie .. then down to the cable car and luckily that was running late too so we made it without having to walk all the way down.


The Index