21 October 1989

Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

We were up at 2 am ready for the off ...  breakfast was a cup of tea (we were not allowed coffee on the way up, only down).

The night was freezing cold and the temperature below zero deg F. and frost bite a real possibility.

We had a briefing, which covered the dangerous aspects of the climb, but the bit that concerned me was that we were no longer allowed to be on our own and would need to remain with a guide at all times. We had four guides and seven clients. ..  however there was a real possibility of that meaning four of us would be sharing one and remainder would be one for one, as these were the ones struggling and suffering with the altitude.

For this section we also got into mountain clothes as opposed to the lightweight walking ones we had used so far, and swapped the lightweight boots for solid ones.

The route took a basically direct route up the obvious scree line to the high point on the skyline. It being pitch black we never saw any of it on the way up, picking our way by torch light.

Progress was painfully slow, and the altitude was affecting all of us, but more so our two companions, neither of which could settle into a mindless pace, placing one foot in front of the other.

Climbing up the screen was arduous but we were really grateful it was frozen. By the time we reached Meyer's cave (where the initial summiters rested) they were worn out ..  it was still dark and very cold. We were forced into a rest, as our companions could not continue, I walked in circles to try and keep warm, as it was too high to generate heat, we just had to retain what we had.

Continuing upwards - the goal of the guides was to get us to the Gilman's point for sunrise, however we did not make it, we were still half an hour below the point when the sun rose above Mwenzi.

It was still impressive, and I had to stop thinking about what could have been.


We reached the top and paused in the sun to warm up and enjoy the view.

The parties in front of us were heading around the ridge to the Uhuru Peak. Even at this point I could not see our companions recovering enough to continue.

I had  taken a stash of Mars bars for the journey and emergency rations, however here was an opportunity to share around.  - The Guide was very excited - Mars bars were a rare luxury for them, and he only had a small bit saving the rest, and I would not blame him if he had kept the remainder for his children.

As we rested, I came to the conclusion that most of our party would not make it around the ridge to the peak and back down, so we had to settle for this as the high point - it would take nearly and hour to get there and 30 mins back - time we did not have.



Dissapointed we set off downward, but I still believe they secretly we thankful the uphill bit was over.

Soon were running down the scree which had caused all the problems on the way up - now freely moving ...  for most this was a new experience, but certainly got us down fast.

A brief pause at the cave to take in what we missed in the night, and see what the early pioneers had to deal with. Then it was continuing down the scree to the Kibo hut.


At the hut it was time to change out of the mountain clothes into the walking clothes for the next section. the descent to the Horombo hut was really straight forward, the down hill gradient made it easy walking.

With the exception of the ridge I remembered from the way up .. there was a short, nasty piece of ascent, however after all the altitude loss we soon recovered.

Before long we were approaching the Horombo huts and the end of a very long day.