27 July 1990

Morganhorn, Switzerland

 The next morning the clouds were still there but more scattered. Dave and I decided we would make an attempt at the traverse, from Morganhorn, to the Blumesalphorn, and back to the hut.



The route follows the glacier around the Wildespitz (see previous trip for details on this one), and then over the seracs at the head of the glacier and up the obvious slope in front of you.
The overnight snow had removed all traces of tracks from previous days.
The higher up the slope the steeper it becomes, until you finally reach the summit cone. At this point it is grade 1 ice climbing.
The top was quite insignificant, but narrow and slightly congested as we got there at the same time as a couple of other parties.
The route onward was swathed in cloud, we were slightly nervous about route finding along a arrow ridge without visibility.
 Preservation senses kicked in and we decided that retreat would be the best thing. Going back down the way we had come, following our tracks back to the hut.



 Back down to the valley, as we got lower the clouds cleared, but after the long day on the Eiger and the soft snow it was still a good decision.

At the lake Dave posed for this picture!


The Morganhorn was to be the last route this year... the weather set in with high winds and lots of rain, so we headed home.