09 February 1993

Grand Montets Ice climb, france

During the days with Brian Hall, Dave and I have talked to him about Ice Climbing opportunities in the the Chamonix valley. He recommended an area just up the track from the helicopter landing zone just up from the Grands Montets bottom station.
Later we would find out that this was called La Cremerie, with a number of routes.
There had been some very cold and frozen nights, so we chose to spend a day investigating and seeing if any routes were in condition.

Parking at the lift station we walked up the piste looking for a track off through the woods, and from here a tack to the glacier snout...  seems easy, but with only a vague idea and a map clearly orientated to summer land marks, route finding was a struggle. Once we had struggled through the woods, and got into the base of the valley, and then followed the river up towards the glacier.

As we got nearer the glacier we could identify a number of lower routes, but right at the top end was a very striking looking route ... this rapidly became the target for Dave and myself. So while the others went off to play on the lower, single pitch, falls, Dave and I prepared to tackle this monster ... looked like 3 pitches.

Dave romped up the lower slopes and came to the obvious belay point. Here was a large collection of tat and a well protected stance. (and a second hand, bent ski stick, abandoned by someone previously)

I followed up and was going really well until all of a sudden for no real reason I felt my shoulder click and then a real ache. I am still not sure what happened, but I suspect I either pulled something (warming up was not really a consideration those days) or else the joint popped out and back in again.
This was a big concern for me, and disappointment for Dave.

There was a quick discussion of continuing, but the reality was we had to descend.



 Dave made up for it by blitzing all the lower routes solo, while I sat around feeling sorry for myself. As the sun started to set and the chill came in we returned to the cars.

The routes were quite an eye opener and showed what is possible, and also how vulnerable I am.
The next day my shoulder was stiff and sore, but still operational, so just a warning.