09 August 1993

Rimpfischhorn, Switzerland

 Waking up early, it was dark and cold... and not very conducive to getting out of a nice warm sleeping bag, much less getting the stove going for a brew. We were spurred into action as we saw head torches starting up the valley below.
We quickly got ready and packed up the bivvy, stashing the sleeping and cooking kit in the rocks for later pick up.

Setting off up to the pass and then over the obvious hillocks, we started to ascend an open ridge towards the skyline as we could see.

As we moved over the next knobble on the ridge we were met by a fierce wind blowing from left to right. We took a few moments to ascertain where we were and weather we should continue or not - the summit would be evil if this wind was as fierce there. However Bryon advocated that we should continue until we knew for certain, as he had already retreated from here once before.

We struggled across the slanted col and headed for the rock ridge up to the skyline. I remember thinking that this cannot be the summit as it is not far enough away and we had not gone the right distance.
Getting to the ridge we found a convenient gulley around to the right and hidden from the wind we scrambled up to the next plateau .

Now we knew where the summit was, and even better the wind was nowhere to be found, and the day was improving all the time. There were a number of parties ahead of us who had come from the Tasch hutte, already on the route, but there would be no route finding issues.



The route went up the obvious snow gullies, and then followed a ramp to the left.

The there was some harder rock steps up to the fore peak. From this peak it was a narrow ridge trail to the true summit. A very small top, with just enough space for the four of us.

Very elated we paused briefly for a few photos and taking in the views before we had to start down and let the next party take over the summit.

The return to the bivi site was back the way we ascended, and passed without incident. Before long we were back at the  camp site and picking up our kit, re-packing the sacs, and preparing for the next stage. I can't remember if we walked all the way to Zermatt or took the cable car, but either way we were back with the car and relaxing at Tasch for the evening.