26 April 2010

Fiescherhorn, Switzerland

We had a rather ambitious plan for today ...  the Fiescherhorns ..  and down to the Finsteraarhorn hut.  We got up early only to look out the window into cloud ...  it was right down. Since this was the same situation as we had two years ago, and we had gone down the Aletsch glacier, much a similar route as we had already taken with Chris and M-J a couple of days ago, we knew we could wait and see what the conditions changed.

After an hour or so it appeared to get a little lighter, and we discussed going down the eastern glacier from the hut and over the grunhornglucke.

We got ready and started our descent - around 80 mins after we planned, this would impact later in the day.

As we descended the glacier the clouds started lifting and we could see the summits of the Fiescherhorns.

We then had a quick planing sessions and decided it was not too late to make a dash for the col ..  depending on the time we would then decide on the summit(s) or not.

We got about half way up and I was convinced we were in the wrong bowl, as the perspective looked wrong ..if i had looked at the Colombe guide book picture we would have seen that it was correct, and it took a while for Bryon to convince me to continue.

As we got higher I could see the error of my ways and headed to the bergschrund at the bottom of the steep final section to the col.

From here we had a great view back down to the glacier, and up to the hut, which was still in cloud. A few years later and we would not have delayed for the cloud, but this was all part of the learning.

From here is was on foot...  steep using ice axe and crampons we followed the big step marks left by the earlier parties.

The climb was further and more energy sapping than I had remembered, but this was the first time for a few years I had been at (or around) 4000m.

Topping out at the col was a big relief, and I was extremely exhausted and just wanted to collapse into a heap.

The clouds parted and showed us the larger of the two summits ... a short traverse, up a gully and along the ridge... right!

Bryon and I set off after I had caught my breath, and almost immediately the clouds descended.

We made it along the ridge to a big step ...  only a few meters below the summit, but this was the time to turn around ..  we had used up all our emergency time and it was necessary to start down.

The initial part of the descent is a circular traverse around the top bowl before descending down the valley on the left hand side. this was not simple in the cloud and we were grateful when we dropped out.

Most of the tracks kept right, rather than dropped left at the end of this valley - the crevasses were a little ominous, so we followed them..

Unfortunately this took us into the serac zone .. there was a clear path, but it did require a lot of confidence,,,  dropping off a vertical edge and turning into a bowl was a bit terrifying, and took a lot of time - Bryon tried walking it, but the snow was so soft he sank. Gratefully we came out OK.

Now we had a second problem .. the snow was now really soft and we needed to wax the skis to make them run .. delaying us even further.

Eventually we came out onto the glacier at the bottom and had a good long gentle schuss down towards the hut.

From here we could see the hut perched on the side of the moraine. It would  involve a climb up - not something we wanted to see.

Anyway the food and rest that was available in the hut dragged us up the final slope and we collapsed on the veranda.

A day we had not expected made out of nothing .. a really great result, although we were completely knackered, worn out and exhausted. We would pay for this over the coming days, but for now enjoyed the result.