23 April 2017

Mont Mort, Switzerland

The weather was closing down later this week...  the forecast was for very high winds followed by days of  low cloud and rain/ snow.

Any thought of heading high for the final part of the haute route jigsaw was soon shelved and we chose to stay around for the last of the better weather.

We had seen people traversing across and up the North face of the mountain next to the refuge. Ubiquitously called Mont Mort.

We parked in the usual spot and headed back up the track ...  there was slight distraction at the first way point, where and emergency stop for weight loss was called for, however there were no lasting impact, and we were soon at the base of the face.
As we looked at the hospis we started angling up across the base of the obvious line.  This was a long run out leading to a traverse under some rocks towards the round top above the hospis
The lower slopes were relatively steep, however it was the traverse that caused the most trepidation ... hard pack  and loose snow crossing a steep slope with limited grip.

We did have a moment to reflect before turning around the bowl and heading for the slightly calmer upper slope.
The route followed this upper slope in a staggered rising zigzag. The weather was relatively hot with only a mild breeze at this point.

The previous participants on this route had cut several tracks and it made ascent a little easier.

It had not looked such a long face from below ...  but it just kept on and on.

 A little more definition as we got higher, and we started to see the goal ...  the col between the two summits.

The Col came into full view, with the logical path curving around to the left, then back again.
The col was a very sharp edge, with a steep approach and very little resting places.

However there was a howling gale coming over that was not conducive to hanging around for any longer than a quick photo

Looking south over the col.

Whilst I stayed close to the top Bryon dropped down a little ...  whipping the skins off an preparing for descent took very little time, and before we came too cold we were ready for the descent.
We were a little reserved about the descent, however this was all dismissed within the first few turns ..  the surface was good and the powder gentle.
Fantastic surface, and we very soon dropped back to the small flat above the hospis.

From here we wanted to drop directly to the hospis, and avoid the traverse. ..

Not a good decision in retrospect .. the surface was hard packed and much like the early days of this trip.

Once down at the hospis, we picked up the standard route back to the road head.

We took the "alternative" side of the river down as far as we could ...this will not be here for much longer.

It also gave us good views back to the summit.
Back at the van ... excellent descent, made up for the challenges of the ascent .... We needed a few more metres to do 1000 m in the day. A quick explore up the tracks of the old lift system. and views down the valley.