15 November 1987

Tryfan, Snowdonia

Another wet day in Wales ..  so after packing up we headed around to joe browns in Capel Curig for a bit of retail therapy and a coffee.

As it brightened up slightly we headed back towards Ogwen and stopped by milestone buttress .. walking up heather terrace then up to the top of tryfan. There followed some shenanigans as I led the team in going from Adam to Eve and back again (or the other way around) - a party trick from the university days.

Back down the ridge to the road and we dried off before heading home - and a stop at the Chinese in Llangollen for a special fried rice.

14 November 1987

Nant Peris, Snowdonia

We were booked into the Ty Powdwr hut near Dinorwic on the Llanberis side of the the pass

The weather was very damp so we set off around to Ogwen with a plan to scramble up the ridge to Y Garn from  the Devil's kitchen side, then returning back via Glyder Fawr and down Bristley ridge.

Back at the hut there was some muttering about no hot water for showers ...  but then no one thought about it before they went out .. I just looked for a warm fire having had enough water for one day!



11 October 1987

Stanage Edge, Peak district

A better day, and woken by the D of E "competitors" around the campsite shouting to each other across the field.

Then off up to Stanage Edge, where we moved in between the crowds to find routes that were not too occupied ...  this being the first meet after the freshers had joined the clubs at nearby universities. Everywhere had fixed ropes on it, and it took a while before we plucked up the courage to jump in.

We kept it fairly simple .. with routes including Bishop's route, Hollybush crack, flying buttress, turf crack, flake chimney and a number of diffs and v diffs.

10 October 1987

Stanage, Peak District

A weekend in the peak district, we had arrived in the night at North Lees campsite. We (Sue, Mike R and myself) had arrived at the campsite later than anticipated due to one big car park on the M1, and lots of rain.

Rain again in the morning, so a late start, and then only down to Grindleford cafe, for a second breakfast. Then perusing the local climbing shops

The afternoon brought no improvement in the weather so we went for a walk around the lake nearby, watching the water cascade over the dam .. ten miles or so later we headed back to the campsite

13 September 1987

Roaches, Peak District

A much better day after yesterday ... and so up to the Roaches

The climbs covered Right route, Fledglings, Fern Crack, Chockstone chimney, Aqua, tealeaf crack, short trip to a Transylvanian brain surgury (for name alone)... and Boulger. However the spectacle of the day was watching someone reverse Sloth in bare feet.

Then we headed home, a better weekend, Sue, Trevor and I with Steve.

12 September 1987

Ramshaw Rocks, Peak District

Club trip to the roaches and we all woke in the campsite to the sound of raindrops on the tents ...

Someone suggested going for a walk over to Ramshaw rocks, and new stones, so we wandered around in waterproofs scrambling on some of the boulders. Phallic crack, arete & crack, boomerang,  magic roundabout and a number of diffs.

It was not long before we all packed up and headed into the pub.

29 August 1987

Pic de Rochebrunne, Summer Alpine trip


Last day, so out to Rochebrune, and a long approach up the valley, with a serious scramble at the end.

Came down looking at the gliders soaring above.

Tomorrow I go back ... luckily the old man would give me a lift around to Gap and a simpler train ride up to Grenoble to catch the bus ..  same problems with that though.

I would not choose to travel by bus again for a long time.

28 August 1987

Tete Blanc, Summer Alpine Trip

Leaving the car at Puy Andre, we walked up the obvious route to tete blanche, u the valley out of the village.

The top gives great views over to the Barre des Ecrins and Mt Pelvoux.

Looking over tot he other side of the valley was the path up to the Pelvoux hut ...  what a soul destroying approach - straight up and zigzags.

27 August 1987

day, Summer Alpine Trip

Another unknown location

26 August 1987

Day, Summer alpine trip

Not sure where this was.

25 August 1987

Pain de sucre, Summer Alpine Trip

 Over to the border with Italy and a very touristy wander up to Pain de sucre ...  however it gave wonderful views over to Mt. Viso

24 August 1987

Col de Lauzet, Summer Alpine Trip

A short walk today ... drive up tot he cabane ste Marie and then follow the path to the col.




23 August 1987

Rest Day, Resoul

Beginning of the week
End of week
After the long day yesterday, I spent the day recovering and settling in ... behind the apartment they were building another block ..  this provided amusement throughout the week as I watched them build a floor in the week.


22 August 1987

1987 Summer Alpine trip, Risoul

This year I was going to meet up with the folks in France while they were on their summer tour, it was an opportunity to get to the mountains and have a break.

I caught an overnight bus from London down to Genoble ...  not a very pleasant journey, cramped seats, and noisy.  There were a couple of stops at service stations, but in general it was always a rush, and it was a relief to get to the bus station in Grenoble. From here I wanted to catch a train around the Ecrins massif, but without any major way to see the timetable without being there, I realised that the next train would not be until late afternoon, and I needed to waste four hours.

Taking all my bags I went for a wander around the city, to waste some time. Eventually I came back and caught the train, which stopped at every halt on the circuit, and I got off at Guilestre station.

The station was in the middle of nowhere, and away from the main town, and I could see that it was more than a walk to the ski station, so as I was tired I found a public telephone, with some adverts and phoned up a taxi company. This was a good decision .. the ski station was way up the mountain well past the old village.

I eventually found the folks (this was the days before mobile technology and personal communications).


28 June 1987

Swanage, Local day Meet

A day trip to Swanage .. and also a chance to meet up with John, who was back from university for the summer.

First up, as the tide was lapping around, a trip into Avernus, with Dave and John .. very atmospheric

Then we moved on to Freda, Stroof, and Double Chockstone
At the end of the day both John and I made an attempt on Dead man Hunt ..  but being a little too pumped failed to get over the overhang and retired back to the cafe for refreshments.

14 June 1987

Burchens edge, Peak District

Similar to yesterday .. a brief not of the climbs done with Dave, Sail buttress and Powder Monkey Parade.

13 June 1987

Froggatt, Peak district

I don't remember much about this trip apart from a note of the climbs I did with Dave, secreted away in one of my guidebooks ... North climb, Heather wall, Diamond crack, Trapeze, Allen's slab, and green gut

17 May 1987

3 Cliffs Bay, Gower Meet

Now we knew the state of the tides ..  we went down to the 3 cliffs area below the camp site.

Dave and I completed Initiation flake, perseverance and scavenger before it was time to make our way back to the cars on the top of the campsite cliff, chased by the incoming tide again.

16 May 1987

Fall Bay, Gower Meet

The tide was indeterminate so instead of waiting around to see if it was coming in or going out; we headed over to Fall Bay

Dave and I set out for Red Corner and Ouch, before making our way back via Great tor upper tier  - East ridge and a watery ascent of Cave crack direct on Odin's wall ...  this did involve balancing the rope on a small pedestal above the tide line as it came in .. Dave led and I inched higher as every minute passed, until I could escape the rising tide.

19 April 1987

Retreat, Easter Meet

During the night the weather turned for the worse..  the wind get fierce, and came howling across the cols, driving rain in front of it.

By a twist of fate, I was on the side of the tent facing the wind, and it was not long before the rain had forced its way through the canvas, and was dripping through onto me. Putting up with it for a while, but soon my down bag was soggy, and desperate action was called for ...  putting my karimat between the fly sheet and inner, helped stem the flow, and then I curled up below Dave, pushing him out of the way until he grumbled, then rolled over into the puddle. Now he understood the situation, and we settled for the rest of the night listening to the wind rolling across the mountains.

The morning arrived and the weather had not improved, Nick and Sue had also had a leak, but less severe, Bryon and Alan had escaped with just keeping the tent from flattening, but no leaks.

A tactical withdraw was discussed and we soon packed up and headed back down the route we took yesterday.

Arriving back at the campsite in the valley, Nick was annoyed to find his tent wrapped around the fence, and in no shape to fulfill its primary function. Following logical discussion we soon gave up the weekend and took to the cars ...  Bryon and Alan heading north, with the rest of us returning south and an appointment with the dryers.

18 April 1987

Sprinkling tarn, Easter Meet

The campsite had filled up overnight, and was now full to bursting. The forecast was not brilliant, but we calculated that we could move up into the mountains and do some climbing on Scafell and Great Gable.

As Nick's tent was not light and also just 3 season, Sue and he would share my force ten, and I would share with Dave in his. The boys would use their Hurricane.

We set out for Sprinkling Tarn up the track to Rossett Gill, with heavy packs in warm and humid weather.

Arriving at the tarn we selected a site on the far side and put up the tents. .. then after wandering around a little we headed down to Wasdale head for a drink in the bar, before returning for dinner.

As the dark descended Dave with Bryon and Alan, went looking for firewood ... not a simple task, however they managed to find enough for us to have a large bonfire and toast marshmallows, well into the evening. Helped along by a flask of Scottish nectar.

We retired to the tents unaware of the coming fortunes of the night.





17 April 1987

Langdale, Easter Meet

The Easter meet this year was a trip to the Langdales, my first away trip with the East Grinstead club.

Dave and I went up with Nick and Sue, and had set up camp in the national trust campsite.

Today we woke up to a day that was warm and bright .. just a day to make a visit to Gimmer crag .. I had not been there for several years, and Kipling Groove was unfinished business ..  Unfrtunately there was a queue, so Dave and I went back to the East side and climbed.. ashtree slabs, C route, B route,

As the sun disappeared around the mountain we headed back to the Dungeon Ghyll and the crag behind it - Raven Crag where we climbed centipede, middlefell buttress in the evening sunlight.

After an evening in the bar we retired to the tents in time to meet Bryon and Alan who had driven up on their way to Scotland.