20 March 1988

Avon Gorge, Day trip

The weather was forecast to be good today, so Dave called me to go climbing at Avon Gorge .. we jumped into a car with Trevor and Nick. the road below was closed for maintenance to the rocks  - this being a Sunday we had free rein... and also less people.
We started off on main wall with the appropriate Revielle, as a way to get up to the mid ledge. before heading over to Pink Wall traverse. This is a route that takes a line across the large walls.
The traverse has some interesting descent and ascents, as well as a hand traverse.

From here we headed over to the Suspension bridge and a route I had looked at for a long while, having completed its partner next door a few years ago. Earl of Perth would be Nicks first E1 lead

Filled with joys of success at this and finishing on the bridge, we headed back to another favorite here .. Malbogies. It takes the line pretty much up the middle of the picture, and finishes at the railings that keep the tourists back.

After descending again we headed off to the Sea Walls area and a climb called Jasper

We were about to pack up back at the main car park when there was a lot of crashing in the trees ... A bloke who was trying "something a little harder" had fallen while struggling and well off line. His belayer and Grendel, held him but was rigid with fear and he was clearly hurt.
We solo'd up tot her and lowered the bloke and the guys got him to the car park and an ambulance, whilst I talked the girl down ... not easy, then cleared up the gear ... he was very lucky, however we soon headed off with just the memories.

13 March 1988

Bethesda, Bethesda Meet

Not sure what we did today ... may be just went home after the last week away

12 March 1988

Ogwen, Bethesda Meet

Dave and I fresh from out exploits in Scotland set about the Snowdon horseshoe..  we started at the lay-by below Dinas Mot , then up the direct route in big boots, and on up the slope to Clog y person where we went up the normal route, and so on tot he ridge,adn around to the summit.

A brief rest ,and then on to Llewidd and back t to the Pass, then down the road to the car. A long day but we were fit.


11 March 1988

Travel day, GlenCoe Meet

A travel day,


After we cleared up the cottage and handed the keys back we headed south..  We were aiming for Bethesda where we would meet up with the climbing club party coming out for the weekend.

10 March 1988

Ben Nevis, Glencoe meet


Following on from yesterday's successes, the next target on Dave's bucket list was Tower Ridge, on Ben Nevis. We persuaded everyone that even if they did not climb the walk into the northern corries and up over the end was well worth it.

However the day was  damp and drizzly, and by the time we had all flogged up the CIC hut, people were flagging.

A quick conference between Dave and I came to the conclusion that Tower ridge was out, but we could do #3 gully, and we headed off up to the main brad gully to the right of Tower ridge.

the other headed back down, and we agreed a time to meet later.
Ascending up to #3 gully we met a party being guided by Geoff Arkless ...  second name for the trip. He confirmed our reading of the conditions and was taking his party up the ledge route.

The main track up the gully was straight forward until we met the end wall.
10m of steep rotten snow called fro delicate work, then we came out to the summit ridge around the same time as Geoff and his party.

A quick visit to the summit, but there was not much to be seen in the clouds, then back down the more normal route to meet up at the car.

This was the last route of the trip and tomorrow we would all return to our homes, but not before a quick stop in N. Wales to meet up with the climbing club weekend party.


09 March 1988

Crowberry Gully, Glencoe meet

Crowberry gully ... the weather was kind enough, and yesterday's snow had added to the conditions.
It takes the line direct to the summit left of the buttress.

We parked in the car park just off the road and walked over the heather, through the stream, and up the lower gully.

On meeting the snow we took the first pitch unroped to save time, but need not have bothered.
At the top of the first pitch, we were met by an avalanche of debris .. there were at least two parties above and they all seemed to be having difficulties .. nothing subtle about their approach.

I took the delicate junction pitch ..  very little ice left by the prior groups, but delicate front pointing on rock and pulling on ice axes jammed into cracks, and we were over into more of the snw gully.
Dave took the cave pitch. As we waited for the wreckers in front to destroy this step as well, a solo climber charged up from below ... we let him through, as he was climbing fast and graciously with hardly any effort .. complete contrast to the others. It turned out to be Joe Brown who was scouting for a tv program. Our brief conversation a memory for both of us, and additionally the delicate poise of a master.
From here the difficulties were over and we just had a straight forward pull to the summit.
The other parties had all disappeared .. probably a good thing otherwise I would have made a sarcastic comment about vandalism of routes.
We had a good opportunity to bask in what was a great route and we had grabbed it in good condition.

From here we took the easy option of the normal descent route, especially as time was getting on.

The descent was a fantastic 1500m bum slide, and very quickly we were back at the car.

The tales in the bar were very exaggerated that night added to Bryon and Alan completing Curved ridge


08 March 1988

Fort William, Glencoe meet

the rain was coming down in torrents, and not a mountain in view at all.

We headed off to Fort William, some to the  swimming pool, and the rest of us to the retail opportunities.

I was on a mission to educate the team in the "delights" of Haggis, so got the traditional makings for dinner tonight.

We all met up again back in the car park, with a bit of a juggling demonstration.  Dave had brought some juggling balls back from his recent trip to America, and had started a crazy amongst the team to see who could also pick up the skills.

Back to the cottage for haggis and whiskey .. Glencoe malt 100 proof, straight from the distillery.

07 March 1988

White Corries ski, Glencoe meet

There had been no freezing and the tops were still all in clouds.

We decided to head for White Corries ski area at the top of the valley.

On the way we got to look at Buchaile Etive Mor and Dave pointed out a line he wanted to do ....  more later!
Bryon's first day on skis!!



06 March 1988

Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glencoe meet

We went up the ziz zag of Gearr Donach to Stob Coire nan Lochan, and then walked along the ridge and down to head of the valley. Then after lunch we went back up Braod gulley the main valley and back to the cottage.


05 March 1988

Bidean nam Bian, Glencoe meet

The clouds were down adn the snow had not frozen overnight ...  we headed up into the hidden valley, and at the snow basin we headed up towards Bidean nam Bian but after navigating by compass for a while , we retreated in the poor visibility and poor snow.

Back in the basin we practiced some ice axe breaking and bum sliding.



04 March 1988

Glencoe, Glencoe meet


We left early in the morning and drove up Glencoe in one push arriving in the afternoon.

We had rented a cottage close to the Clacaig pub - Torren cottages.

We did wander up to the lookup above the end of the glen, overlooking where the McDonald  clan were massacred.