31 December 1989

Helvellyn, New Year Meet

Very wet day, and we just hung around all morning, then moved around to the tea shops in Patterdale for the afternoon.
 
At6pm we were off up Helvellyn as the afternoon wears on .. the cloud was down and it was getting dusk as we started Striding Edge.

As we began our ascent to the main ridge at the end it became apparent we would need crampons to cope with the ice. Luckily I had put ours in at the last minute, just in case.
Bryon took the lead with Alan and Lynn struggling without crampons. Trevor and Bryon banged in step while Sue and I were ready to catch any trips.

10:30pm and we were on the top ... the wind became really fierce...  this would be so different to last year. making the summit we headed for the wind shelters and put up our tents .. our wild country was held up by rocks on the snow valences, Bryon's and Alan's hurricanes held up by ice axes on place of pegs.

The wind was so fierce we all just crashed into our bags and fell asleep, after a frosty beer or two and several whiskeys


30 December 1989

Patterdale, New Year Trip

Bryon, Sue and I had traveled up to the Borrowdale campsite last night to meet up with Alan, Lynn and Trevor, who had been bivving around the tops for a few days.

Today we headed off for Scales Inn and Blencathra, via sharp edge, and then back down the south side to the cars.

Then it was off to Keswick to peruse the Fishers sale.



12 November 1989

Carnedds, Away Dinner Meet

A trip to the Carnedds - Pen y ole Wen ... into the clouds and rain

Then off home.



11 November 1989

Snowdon, Away Dinner Meet

The weather was not good so we went to Dinorwic and around the powerstation.

Then back to the Karabiner club hut for the dinner .. Spag Bog as usual, followed by long discussions fuels by beer. Then a bout or table rolling. The Karabiner club members present did not see the funny side of this, and although we left the hut in a clean and tidy state we were advised not to go back again.

22 October 1989

Return to Marangu Hotel, Tanzania

Last Day on the mountain..... the usual late start, but there were some fantastic views over the top of the clouds rising from the valley.



The journey down was relatively simple, and followed the route we used on the way up. However as it was going downhill it was so much easier.

Before long we had gone past the Mandara hut, and were heading down the track to the gate.

At the gate we had to wait for all the others to straggle in.  It was almost an hour before the last of them came down .. they were feeling the effects of the rapid descent


Nothing happened until everyone was down, we all sat around getting bored, and fretting, I just sat and went to sleep after a while. Finally we could check out and receive our "certificates" for the journey.

Once all the formalites were over we had another wait while the transport arrived so we could be taken to the hotel. - Welcome to Africa.

Then we said goodbye to our porters and guides, there was an exchange of gifts, where I left my sweaty tee-shirts and the lightweight walking boots. For the porter I had a spare Mars Bar, that had been like gold on this trip.

Back at the hotel, we retrieved our "stashed" baggage and retired for a bath to wash the dust of 6 days on the hill away, actually two were required, the first just removed the surface dust.

Feeling much better it was time to refresh the interior and several cold beers were followed by some food that was thankfully free from that wood smoke taint.

21 October 1989

Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

We were up at 2 am ready for the off ...  breakfast was a cup of tea (we were not allowed coffee on the way up, only down).

The night was freezing cold and the temperature below zero deg F. and frost bite a real possibility.

We had a briefing, which covered the dangerous aspects of the climb, but the bit that concerned me was that we were no longer allowed to be on our own and would need to remain with a guide at all times. We had four guides and seven clients. ..  however there was a real possibility of that meaning four of us would be sharing one and remainder would be one for one, as these were the ones struggling and suffering with the altitude.

For this section we also got into mountain clothes as opposed to the lightweight walking ones we had used so far, and swapped the lightweight boots for solid ones.

The route took a basically direct route up the obvious scree line to the high point on the skyline. It being pitch black we never saw any of it on the way up, picking our way by torch light.

Progress was painfully slow, and the altitude was affecting all of us, but more so our two companions, neither of which could settle into a mindless pace, placing one foot in front of the other.

Climbing up the screen was arduous but we were really grateful it was frozen. By the time we reached Meyer's cave (where the initial summiters rested) they were worn out ..  it was still dark and very cold. We were forced into a rest, as our companions could not continue, I walked in circles to try and keep warm, as it was too high to generate heat, we just had to retain what we had.

Continuing upwards - the goal of the guides was to get us to the Gilman's point for sunrise, however we did not make it, we were still half an hour below the point when the sun rose above Mwenzi.

It was still impressive, and I had to stop thinking about what could have been.


We reached the top and paused in the sun to warm up and enjoy the view.

The parties in front of us were heading around the ridge to the Uhuru Peak. Even at this point I could not see our companions recovering enough to continue.

I had  taken a stash of Mars bars for the journey and emergency rations, however here was an opportunity to share around.  - The Guide was very excited - Mars bars were a rare luxury for them, and he only had a small bit saving the rest, and I would not blame him if he had kept the remainder for his children.

As we rested, I came to the conclusion that most of our party would not make it around the ridge to the peak and back down, so we had to settle for this as the high point - it would take nearly and hour to get there and 30 mins back - time we did not have.



Dissapointed we set off downward, but I still believe they secretly we thankful the uphill bit was over.

Soon were running down the scree which had caused all the problems on the way up - now freely moving ...  for most this was a new experience, but certainly got us down fast.

A brief pause at the cave to take in what we missed in the night, and see what the early pioneers had to deal with. Then it was continuing down the scree to the Kibo hut.


At the hut it was time to change out of the mountain clothes into the walking clothes for the next section. the descent to the Horombo hut was really straight forward, the down hill gradient made it easy walking.

With the exception of the ridge I remembered from the way up .. there was a short, nasty piece of ascent, however after all the altitude loss we soon recovered.

Before long we were approaching the Horombo huts and the end of a very long day.

20 October 1989

Kibo hut, Tanzania

The morning followed a similar pattern with everyone waiting around to start off.. the sun was up and the day warming before there was any movement.

Eventually Sue and I got fed up waiting and set off.. the route to the next hut (the Kibo) was obvious and there was not really much chance of getting lost.

The route headed through the tundra, continuing the rising traverse, around the side of Mwenzi, to the plateau between it and the main peak. The hut lies at the base of the main peak, before the steep section starts.

As we approached the desert like plateau in the middle there was a ridge to cross. This involved an ascent and descent, but it was also the point where the tundra changes into a desert. the track is easy to see as it winds into the distance.

From here there is still a long way to go in the day, and the trudge across the desert is made more arduous by the heat -  another reason for an earlier start.

We ate lunch in the shelter of a large boulder in the middle (almost all senses) of the plateau, and then continued on towards the main peak.
As you get to the Kibo hut there is a final rise to negotiate before you get to the traditional stone bunkhouse building. Guaranteed to finish off any remaining energy.
The Dinner was a much simpler affair ... there is no firewood around nor is there any running water.. it all has to be carried from just above the last hut. ... It was a corned beef hash stew ... actually much better than it looked.

Most of our party was feeling the altitude, and although Sue and I arrived earlier than the others, it still took time to get used to being at the same height as the top of the Matterhorn. We sat out in the last of the sun with the porters, whilst we waited for the others.

Sleeping was a big problem (combining the usual altitude affected brain activity, with everyone else moving around) and several of the party were up and down to the loo all night (they were the ones who were taking anti-altitude sickness tablets).

As the sun went down on Mwenzi we reflected that tomorrow would be a big day

19 October 1989

Horombo hut, Tanzania

The night was a little disturbed by our companions in the adjacent room (we had 4 beds per room) talking well into the night.
As usual Sue and I  were up relatively early,  - unfortunately the rest were not, and breakfast was also waiting on the guys getting fire and boiling water, which did not start until we were all up.
This would become a bone of contention for me during the trip, as I prefer an early start and long rest at the end of the day, in the normal alpine tradition.

Eventually towards 10 am we started off.. the day would be a long rising traverse to the upper plateau, ending under the ridge of Mwenzi. the first section was through the grass lands and very much like an English heathland.

We moved further ahead of the rest as they dawdled along and spent most of the day on our own with the occasional meet up with the porters.
Gradually the grass started to bleach of and look more dried. the track widened and became more dusty.

Lunch would be some sandwiches with an evil green looking filling like Avocado, which I soon gave up on, however a local mouse enjoyed the unexpected feast!

The afternoon was spent as the route got into more mountainous territory with endlessly crossing ridges and troughs all the time working towards the Mwenzi peak.

As the day progressed the cloud came down and now we could be anywhere in the English lake district, apart from the giant Groundsel plants.

Arriving at the Horombo huts, we were the last party of the day and there was definitely a feeling of being "fitted" in as they had to clear some spaces for us. This also backed up my preference to leave early, but I did not rock the boat by rubbing it in.

The huts were long thin bunk rooms with the usual over stayed mattresses.

Dinner was another "smoky" delight, but certainly edible.

As the sun went down there was a last chance to look at the view, and fill the water containers from the last supply before the summit (also before the supply frozen overnight).

This night was much better as our companions were very tired after their exertions.