Return to Marangu Hotel, Tanzania

Last Day on the mountain..... the usual late start, but there were some fantastic views over the top of the clouds rising from the valley.

The journey down was relatively simple, and followed the route we used on the way up. However as it was going downhill it was so much easier.

Before long we had gone past the Mandara hut, and were heading down the track to the gate.

At the gate we had to wait for all the others to straggle in.  It was almost an hour before the last of them came down .. they were feeling the effects of the rapid descent

Nothing happened until everyone was down, we all sat around getting bored, and fretting, I just sat and went to sleep after a while. Finally we could check out and receive our "certificates" for the journey.

Once all the formalites were over we had another wait while the transport arrived so we could be taken to the hotel. - Welcome to Africa.

Then we said goodbye to our porters and guides, there was an exchange of gifts, where I left my sweaty tee-shirts and the lightweight walking boots. For the porter I had a spare Mars Bar, that had been like gold on this trip.

Back at the hotel, we retrieved our "stashed" baggage and retired for a bath to wash the dust of 6 days on the hill away, actually two were required, the first just removed the surface dust.

Feeling much better it was time to refresh the interior and several cold beers were followed by some food that was thankfully free from that wood smoke taint.

Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

We were up at 2 am ready for the off ...  breakfast was a cup of tea (we were not allowed coffee on the way up, only down).

The night was freezing cold and the temperature below zero deg F. and frost bite a real possibility.

We had a briefing, which covered the dangerous aspects of the climb, but the bit that concerned me was that we were no longer allowed to be on our own and would need to remain with a guide at all times. We had four guides and seven clients. ..  however there was a real possibility of that meaning four of us would be sharing one and remainder would be one for one, as these were the ones struggling and suffering with the altitude.

For this section we also got into mountain clothes as opposed to the lightweight walking ones we had used so far, and swapped the lightweight boots for solid ones.

The route took a basically direct route up the obvious scree line to the high point on the skyline. It being pitch black we never saw any of it on the way up, picking our way by torch light.

Progress was painfully slow, and the altitude was affecting all of us, but more so our two companions, neither of which could settle into a mindless pace, placing one foot in front of the other.

Climbing up the screen was arduous but we were really grateful it was frozen. By the time we reached Meyer's cave (where the initial summiters rested) they were worn out ..  it was still dark and very cold. We were forced into a rest, as our companions could not continue, I walked in circles to try and keep warm, as it was too high to generate heat, we just had to retain what we had.

Continuing upwards - the goal of the guides was to get us to the Gilman's point for sunrise, however we did not make it, we were still half an hour below the point when the sun rose above Mwenzi.

It was still impressive, and I had to stop thinking about what could have been.

We reached the top and paused in the sun to warm up and enjoy the view.

The parties in front of us were heading around the ridge to the Uhuru Peak. Even at this point I could not see our companions recovering enough to continue.

I had  taken a stash of Mars bars for the journey and emergency rations, however here was an opportunity to share around.  - The Guide was very excited - Mars bars were a rare luxury for them, and he only had a small bit saving the rest, and I would not blame him if he had kept the remainder for his children.

As we rested, I came to the conclusion that most of our party would not make it around the ridge to the peak and back down, so we had to settle for this as the high point - it would take nearly and hour to get there and 30 mins back - time we did not have.

Dissapointed we set off downward, but I still believe they secretly we thankful the uphill bit was over.

Soon were running down the scree which had caused all the problems on the way up - now freely moving ...  for most this was a new experience, but certainly got us down fast.

A brief pause at the cave to take in what we missed in the night, and see what the early pioneers had to deal with. Then it was continuing down the scree to the Kibo hut.

At the hut it was time to change out of the mountain clothes into the walking clothes for the next section. the descent to the Horombo hut was really straight forward, the down hill gradient made it easy walking.

With the exception of the ridge I remembered from the way up .. there was a short, nasty piece of ascent, however after all the altitude loss we soon recovered.

Before long we were approaching the Horombo huts and the end of a very long day.

Kibo hut, Tanzania

The morning followed a similar pattern with everyone waiting around to start off.. the sun was up and the day warming before there was any movement.

Eventually Sue and I got fed up waiting and set off.. the route to the next hut (the Kibo) was obvious and there was not really much chance of getting lost.

The route headed through the tundra, continuing the rising traverse, around the side of Mwenzi, to the plateau between it and the main peak. The hut lies at the base of the main peak, before the steep section starts.

As we approached the desert like plateau in the middle there was a ridge to cross. This involved an ascent and descent, but it was also the point where the tundra changes into a desert. the track is easy to see as it winds into the distance.

From here there is still a long way to go in the day, and the trudge across the desert is made more arduous by the heat -  another reason for an earlier start.

We ate lunch in the shelter of a large boulder in the middle (almost all senses) of the plateau, and then continued on towards the main peak.

As you get to the Kibo hut there is a final rise to negotiate before you get to the traditional stone bunkhouse building. Guaranteed to finish off any remaining energy.

The Dinner was a much simpler affair ... there is no firewood around nor is there any running water.. it all has to be carried from just above the last hut. ... It was a corned beef hash stew ... actually much better than it looked.

Most of our party was feeling the altitude, and although Sue and I arrived earlier than the others, it still took time to get used to being at the same height as the top of the Matterhorn. We sat out in the last of the sun with the porters, whilst we waited for the others.

Sleeping was a big problem (combining the usual altitude affected brain activity, with everyone else moving around) and several of the party were up and down to the loo all night (they were the ones who were taking anti-altitude sickness tablets).

As the sun went down on Mwenzi we reflected that tomorrow would be a big day

Horombo hut, Tanzania

The night was a little disturbed by our companions in the adjacent room (we had 4 beds per room) talking well into the night.
As usual Sue and I  were up relatively early,  - unfortunately the rest were not, and breakfast was also waiting on the guys getting fire and boiling water, which did not start until we were all up.
This would become a bone of contention for me during the trip, as I prefer an early start and long rest at the end of the day, in the normal alpine tradition.

Eventually towards 10 am we started off.. the day would be a long rising traverse to the upper plateau, ending under the ridge of Mwenzi. the first section was through the grass lands and very much like an English heathland.

We moved further ahead of the rest as they dawdled along and spent most of the day on our own with the occasional meet up with the porters.
Gradually the grass started to bleach of and look more dried. the track widened and became more dusty.

Lunch would be some sandwiches with an evil green looking filling like Avocado, which I soon gave up on, however a local mouse enjoyed the unexpected feast!

The afternoon was spent as the route got into more mountainous territory with endlessly crossing ridges and troughs all the time working towards the Mwenzi peak.

As the day progressed the cloud came down and now we could be anywhere in the English lake district, apart from the giant Groundsel plants.

Arriving at the Horombo huts, we were the last party of the day and there was definitely a feeling of being "fitted" in as they had to clear some spaces for us. This also backed up my preference to leave early, but I did not rock the boat by rubbing it in.

The huts were long thin bunk rooms with the usual over stayed mattresses.

Dinner was another "smoky" delight, but certainly edible.

As the sun went down there was a last chance to look at the view, and fill the water containers from the last supply before the summit (also before the supply frozen overnight).

This night was much better as our companions were very tired after their exertions.

Mandara hut, Tanzania

Start day for the trek.

As was going to become normal, starting time was late and involved a lot of hanging around before we finally start off for the day.

The first thing was to meet the local team ... our head guide and his assistants, together with the team of porters. Then we had to pack up the mountain clothes, divide them between day sac and the bag to be carried by the porters. This later bag was put into a burlap sac together with your partners and the porters few belongings. The remainder was packed up and put into storage for our return.
Then there was a final check (and an opportunity to hire any missing things) before getting taken to the gate in the van.

At the gate you have to sign in and hand over your fee (again cash in US Dollars), this was also to control how many are on the mountain at any one time, but a useful foreign currency generator.

Then we hung around for some unknown reason for over 60 mins before starting off.

Once under way we followed a rough vehicle track through the forest.

It became apparent very quickly that our companions were not really used to trekking in the mountains, this was akin to a Sunday stroll for them, rather than a mountain expedition, and there was much larking around at the start.
Soon Sue and I were out front and away from the rest (as would become usual again on this trip).

After a while we left the track and headed through a closed in jungle path up to the heathland above.


Finally we arrived at the hut(s) - these were a larger main hut with smaller dormitory ones around, all in a Scandinavian feel.

All I remember about dinner is that had a very smoky taste, and also that after we turned in we were kept awake by others in the party talking through the night.

There was also from a separate party, where the guide had to return to the bottom to bring up a towel, wash kit and toilet paper for a woman in their party who had expected hotel like accommodation and was very disappointed by the long drop toilets and the open water basins.

Marangu Hotel, Tanzania

The initial part of the day we all met up to see the timetable ... basically nothing happening today other than preparation and most of that would take place after dinner.

We relaxed and enjoyed the hotel in the morning, then as we had plenty of time before any scheduled activity in the afternoon, and I had been sitting around for so long, Sue and I went for a short walk around the neighborhood - through the local market and past some of the local villages.

Then back to the hotel ... we were given our white sacks to pack into and offered any missing kit loans, followed by a brief talk on the dangers and the protocols etc. Then into supper.

Before long it was night and time to reflect on the coming days.
However we had a great opportunity to see the mountain as the evening melted the cloud away from the tops that had hidden them all day.

Marangu hotel, Tanzania

The flight from Heathrow was scheduled to land at Mombasa first then back to Nairobi, however there was some diplomatic dignitary in first class, who was not prepared to wait for the usual circuit, so the plane went direct to Nairobi.

Arriving early just meant we had to hang around and wait for the transport. Seeing several other people hanging around, it was safe to assume they would be our companions on this adventure.

Eventually the minibus arrived, and we loaded in. The van then headed for Tanzania, down the main road, good tarmac to start with but gradually got worse.

The first encounter with the locals was when we stopped at the Kenyan equivalent of a service station ... an adobe building selling selling bottled drinks and a row of corrugated iron long drop cubicles.

The next memory is arriving at the border with Tanzania, here a long queue and when we eventually got to the border guards first was the check out of Kenya, then check into Tanzania, in between you "had" to go to bank, and change a minimum of $100 US for each person in to shillings.

Kilimanjaro hiding in the clouds

Next we continued down the road to Arusha, and the next encounter of the journey. As we drove from the border we went past the first mountain of any real size ... not sure what it is called, but it was noticeable (believed to be Mt Longido 2629m).
The hotel at Arusha was suffering from the economic situation of the country at the time. The Hotel came from the days of the empire - the French empire - in this cases. It only remained in existence today because of the airport built by the French as part of overseas aide.
The hotel had full menu service, making great promises  .... but everything was "off" except the meal of the day!

Then back in the van for the last stretch to the Hotel at Moshi. As we got closer we could see the massif on the skyline above the flat plains.

The hotel was an old colonial house with some bedroom bungalows in the garden, very much as I remembered from my "childhood".

The hotel was run by an old Spinster, and a number of staff, but really only existed for those on the way to the mountain or returning. It was also the organising unit for the guides and porters required for the climb -  the regulations determine the number of local guides per party and the volume of local porters. 1 porter per two people, and 1 guide per four, with an additional head guide.