27 May 1990

Scafell, Eskdale Meet

Today, the sun was shining and I set off with Nick and Bryon to Scafell crags .. I wanted to complete Botrill's slab - a climb I had started back in the University days but got beaten back by the weather (we should have known better when we had to change to the climbing shoes sat on a bergscrund.

Not today, the sun was shining as we climbed up to Mickeldore, and came around the corner.

At the bottom of the climb Nick and Bryon sat purposefully down and prepared, and unknowingly of their plans I followed like a lemon ... they then set off up Central buttress..  Their plan was such that we arrived below the great flake when it was my time to lead ...  My fathers old guide book talks about three on a rope and the middle person jamming themselves into the crack, but modern ties uses a layback technique ..  I started off well and got to the chockstone but spent a lot of time and energy finding a good placement for a sling, then layback up to the top .. well almost the top ... as I transitioned from vertical to horizontal my strength gave up, and I watched my finger uncurl before flying outwards and downwards.
After much mirth from my companions .. back up and this time no mistakes... the rest of the climb went smoothly.

Then back to do Boterill's slab ..  much simpler this time with some friction.

 after this we walked to the top and down the other side back to the campsite for supper and more midge tales.