17 April 1998

Clot de la Siva, France

The next day was to be our last this trip ... not having time to get to anything high, and the snow rapidly making the low level routes difficult. Additionally I was not yet confident in picking routes on the map and wanted the comfort of a route in a book. .. this would be something to work on the next year.

Opposite the camp-site was a little peak called Clot de Silva, and on an evening stroll we had seen a small sign at the bottom that indicated a via ferrata.

Later I would know this as the Via ferrata les Vigneaux, but for now it was a day out that promised a mountain route and some climbing.


It proved to be a much more "traditional"  Via Ferrata with protection but only support on the really vertical sections, where a few rungs were cemented in

Another enjoyable day to finish off the trip


16 April 1998

Argentiere & Gorge du Durrance, France

The next day, after a long lie in to get over the exertions of the day before, we were finally driven from the tents by the heat of the sun baking down.

By mid day Bryon and I were getting restless .. and somehow we were drawn to an advert in the camp-site office for a via ferrata at the end of the valley

This route  did nt have a grading or timing, just stated "Via Ferrata". SO we set off to have a look.


 Leaving the car in a lay-by off the main raid we walked down into the gorge, along a dusty track. then where the rock began was a shiny new metal rope.

The course began with a short traverse, which was probably designed as a warm up/ sanity check, and then moved into a section where we went back and forth across the gorge on suspended wood and wire bridges, with little excursions on each side

climbing up all kinds of metal work we got higher in the gorge before traversing along some slabs

This section of the via ferrate finished here, but there was no sign and we only realised later that the next section was much harder ... we could have stopped  here and walked out

We carried on... after crossing to the other side of the gorge things went up almost vertically.

It was very strenuous, but there was lots of support and the rope was tied in frequently so there was little objective danger, just so long as we always kept one sling attached at all times (as you are supposed to do).


 After a while we thought we were getting to the top .. but in reality the slope angled by 10 degrees ... still steep, and the same to go again

Then there was a final sting in the tail ...  a rock block.

Where as yesterday it had all been on the feet, today it was an arm exercise, with support from the feet.

We were really pleased with the day, and went back to the tents happy.

15 April 1998

Barre Des Ecrins, France

The sky was clear all night and there was a heavy frost ... next morning, we got up early, we had planned to make the short trip to the Ecrins hut, and then continue to the top the following day.

To make most of the day, we would continue to the Roche Faurio, at the head of the glacier - A pyramid shaped peak.

Leaving the hut early - at the same time as the parties going to the summit (as we found out yesterday, probably a step too far)


We started up in the dark, back along the trail from yesterday, and before long upwards to the side of the seracs at the end of the glacier. The surface was very icy and hard, so we were soon putting on the ski crampons, to give us extra grip and surety. Here we discovered that Derek had a problem moving with ski crampons ...  it was a technique that he was not confident in, and this was not helped when he lost one down the slope. I would give him my spare at the end of the trip, but for now he was limited, and resorted to using boot crampons and carrying his skis.

Once up on the Glacier Blanc, the slope eased up, and became almost flat. Far in the distance we could see the promintary where the hut sat looking out over the glacier.




As we got closer you could see a path separating to go up to the hut. My feet were causing me a great deal of pain, and to ensure that I would be fit to make the summit the next day, I took the difficult decision to go to the hut, whilst Bryon and Derek continued.
I slowly climbed up the 50m vertical to the hut, whilst the other two disappeared to the end of the glacier. At the hut, I was the only guest around, and spent the morning in the sun with my feet up and reading my book.

Bryon and Derek continued on and summited on the Roche Faurio, however the descent again proved to be a problem for Derek, and his technique. Bryon resorted to defensive skiing to assist him getting down, and the slopes reverted to the chorus of
"Derek ..
turn, turn,
turn now
fall over!"
Around 2pm they were back at the hut, and after we had regaled each other with the exploits of the day, drunk tea and snacked, the conversation got more serious.

Both Bryon and I were certain that Derek would struggle to get to the top of the Barre, with only one ski crampon, then there was the descent, with the seracs and crevasses, we could not be certain that he would be able to control everything on the descent. Derek wanted to continue on foot, but Bryon and I felt this would lead to us taking a long time and bringing additional problems from soft snow.

The only viable alternative was to retreat ... much to the disappointment of the guardian, as there was not many people staying that night.

The descent was the reverse of our ascent, with the exception, of visiting the Glacier Blanc hut.

The descent down to the Pre was again a challenge for Derek, and really just highlighted that we had made the correct decision.

At the Pre, we had a very tiring section of polling to get across the flat fields to the road, and a long plot down to the barrier.

Back at the car, exhausted and slightly disappointed we quickly packed up, and headed back to Ailefroide. there was a camp-site on the side of the road which we had seen on the way in.
Table and chairs courtesy of the camp-site

14 April 1998

Barre des Ecrins, France

There was reportedly a good weather window coming for the next few days, and we were relatively fit now having spent several days in the mountains. The time had come to think about the major objective for this year, and we pulled out the plans for the Barre des Ecrins.

All the books describe driving up to the Pre de Madam Carle, and then heading up the side of the alley to the glacier Blanc.

Before we started off, we phoned the refuge des Ecrins to book in and were met with surprise that we would get there in one day - this should have been a warning.
We drove around to the the south side of Briancon and headed up the next valley West to Vallouise, and Ailefroide. Where to our complete surprise we found the road barred. The spring thaw had not been sufficient to stop the avalanches from cutting the road higher up. Unfortunately most of the road was clear, but we had many additional kilometres to do on foot with our skis on the back.




Parking by the barrier we loaded up and started along the tarmac. Walking up the road was a real slog, and as the day warmed up go very humid in the enclosed spaces with the valley sides and trees all around.

Reaching the Pre, brought some slight relief, we could get our skis on as the snow was still settled. Unfortunately the time taken to get here, had meant that it was sightly soft, and therefore hard going on the flat.

From the Pre, the path crossed in some indistinct way to the right hand side, and the west of the gorge coming down from the glacier Blanc.

It was with some relief when we started climbing, gradually at first then steeper and steeper as we wound up the slope moving from one snow patch to another.




After this steep section the path slackened, but still fairly intensive up to the col. It was at this point that we came to the realisation that all was not well... Chris was struggling, and decided that he would not be able to go any further, and I did not realise it, but I was getting extremely dehydrated .. the heat had paid a heavy price. Chris returned to the vehicles and would make his way home, whilst Derek, Bryon and I would continue onwards.


Continuing onward we came to the snout of the Glacier Blanc ... I was by now very light headed and  feeling exhausted, luckily Bryon picked up on what it was and made me drink the contents of my water bottle. This was just what I needed, and after 15 mins sitting down, I was ready to continue.





From here the route contoured round to the north side before cutting back to the Glacier Blanc hut. The day was moving along, and it was soon apparent that if we continued to the Ecrins hut we would not be in a fit state to continue to the Barre the next day, and our best opportunity was stop at the glacier Blanc hut and continue the next day.





So where the path split we turned right and went to the hut, but only after we had taken a good look at the route upwards for the next day.

 We were welcomed in the hut with that knowing smile from the guardian, silly people...

One other casualty of the really hot day was my feet...  for the first time in many years (and especially since I got my touring boots) were ripped to shreds and the inside of each ankle had massive blisters, red and raw.

The sunset provided a brilliant backdrop for the night looking across to Mont Pelvoux.

13 April 1998

Sommet du Prorel, France

The weather improved, and it was enough for us to decide that we should make an attempt on a route .. after several days of fresh snow we were uncertain about the stability of the snow pack.

Looking at the map there seemed to be a likely route up the SE face of the Sommet du Prorel - the peak that overlooks the SW side of Briancon.

We set off in the car to drive around through Puy-St-Pierre to Puy-St-Andre, and then tried to get up the valley on the back road to Les Combes and the parking there.

Although the snow was melting and on the South facing side it should be more advanced there, but we had not reckoned with the forest retarding the melting. As we drove up the track passing through the last remaining patches of  snow, However on one of the hairpins, there was a large drift that we just could not get past ...  around 30cms deep the wheels just got stuck. In fact the only way to turn around on the narrow track was to reverse the back end of the car into the drift, and while spinning the front drive wheels push the car sideways on the snow to turn about its axis.

Pointing back down the road we drove back to Puy-St- Andre. From here we had noticed a ski piste going back up, like a white ribbon amongst the green pastures.

We used this ribbon to quickly gain height, and were soon working up through the tree covered lower slopes.

The trees thinned out as we got higher, and we could see the end goal.






Up the ridge we could see the summit, although it did look as if we would be picking a winding route through the snow patches.

There was an anxious moment when crossing a bowl, and the snow compressing under the skis made a whoomping sound... was this about to break away? Luckily it remained stable.




Up past a couple of ski lift stations, closed for the end of the season, and winding up the final sloes to the summit.

The descent was basically a reverse of the ascent, although it was easier to link the snow patches together from above, so we could pick out some straighter line.




We took extra special care as we crossed the bowl that had made the noise on the way upwards, skiing one at a time from safe point to safe point.

Back on the piste runs in the lower slopes the effect of the day's heat, and the lack of freezing at night with the cloud cover, the ribbon was visibly narrower than when we ascended in the morning.

This was no clearer than on the final section where we had to remove the skis at a couple of points.

We had made a useful trip out of a mediocre day. A few days later when the sun was shining you could see the route clearly.

12 April 1998

Aiguilette du lauzette, France

The next day was worse....  Bryon and Chris were not keen to go out, but Derek and I decided that we should have a go at another Via Ferrata, this time back up towards the col de Lauteret. This was a "proper" mountain route, that went around the front of the rocky outcrop.

We parked at the bend where there was places that lead to the footpath going into the hills. We first had to get up to the end of the ridge and then from there find the start...

From the valley this looked perfectly feasible, however once we turned the corner of the ridge, the snow became deeper and softer ..

There was no sign of the start of the route, and an attempt to head on the obvious traverse was objectively very dangerous. Better judgement prevailed and we turned around.

With our tails firmly between our legs we went back to the others. For the afternoon we had a little explore of the Queryas range. We drove to the border with Italy and looked over to Mont Viso, than back via the Chateau perched on the rock.

11 April 1998

Croix de Toulouse, France

The weather was not brilliant .. the skies were clearing, but the start of the day was poor, and it had not frozen over night. We were not going to be on the slopes again, so after a bit of discussion, we went to try the Via Ferrata we had seen the previous day.

There are a number of books now which detail the via Ferrata, but at this time it was an underground movement, with information generally only available at the Guides Bureau.

I had first met these in the Italian Dolomites, where it was more a "protected path", but here we were into more serious terrain ... we were not entirely sure what it would lead to, but it would be fun finding out.

The parking (in those days) was up a narrow back street, and on the side of the track... not sure that leaving the car there would be safe, we retreated to the car park at the top of town and walked in.

Having walked up the side of the mountain, we came across a very modest sign to show the start of the route, and the cable hidden behind a rock.

The route went almost straight up the ridge overlooking Briancon. There was a plethora of steps, cemented into the rock face, and differing to the Italian routes, the cable went continuously all along.

There were some fantastic positions as the sun came out and we worked upwards.

At a point two thirds the way up there was a little bridge that lead back tot he main ridge. From here it was more of the same to the top.

The descent was down the footpath leading around the Eastern side and back down through the woods to the road at the bottom and hence back to the car.
A very pleasant excursion and made the most of the improving day.

The technique required to climb these routes is not too difficult, and the safety of the wire ropes allows one to get into places that would not normally be accessible without a lot of skill and climbing