Waking up early we were really pleased to see that the weather was much better. We set off as soon as we could hoping that all or gear was still in place ...
Arriving at the col, it was with great relief that everything was where we had abandoned it. The rope was still jammed fast so there was no easy way to get it back ... either solo up, or climb back up the rope hand over hand.
I volunteered to solo the climb to the ledge where it was jammed ... fueled with adrenalin and also having been up it the day before, it went without much issue.
The rope was jammed into a crack, but came out without much effort, and I brought everyone else up to the ledge. From here we would continue as if nothing had happened!
From this ledge it is a long step over to the first of the pinnacles and then diagonally across it to the next col, from here the same technique gets to the next pinnacle and around to the next col.
Next is a big crack to climb followed up on the diedre to the easier sloping rocks above, the complexities are over and we were soon all gathered on the summit basking in the sun.
The book describes the descent as a series of abseils, with a few simple short descents. over 10 abseils later we were down at the forcella, and a short walk back to the tents.
The route was everything my father had promised, and well worth the false start and return
Arriving at the col, it was with great relief that everything was where we had abandoned it. The rope was still jammed fast so there was no easy way to get it back ... either solo up, or climb back up the rope hand over hand.
I volunteered to solo the climb to the ledge where it was jammed ... fueled with adrenalin and also having been up it the day before, it went without much issue.
The rope was jammed into a crack, but came out without much effort, and I brought everyone else up to the ledge. From here we would continue as if nothing had happened!
From this ledge it is a long step over to the first of the pinnacles and then diagonally across it to the next col, from here the same technique gets to the next pinnacle and around to the next col.
Next is a big crack to climb followed up on the diedre to the easier sloping rocks above, the complexities are over and we were soon all gathered on the summit basking in the sun.
The book describes the descent as a series of abseils, with a few simple short descents. over 10 abseils later we were down at the forcella, and a short walk back to the tents.
The route was everything my father had promised, and well worth the false start and return