28 May 1990
27 May 1990
Scafell, Eskdale Meet
Today, the sun was shining and I set off with Nick and Bryon to Scafell crags .. I wanted to complete Botrill's slab - a climb I had started back in the University days but got beaten back by the weather (we should have known better when we had to change to the climbing shoes sat on a bergscrund.
Not today, the sun was shining as we climbed up to Mickeldore, and came around the corner.
At the bottom of the climb Nick and Bryon sat purposefully down and prepared, and unknowingly of their plans I followed like a lemon ... they then set off up Central buttress.. Their plan was such that we arrived below the great flake when it was my time to lead ... My fathers old guide book talks about three on a rope and the middle person jamming themselves into the crack, but modern ties uses a layback technique .. I started off well and got to the chockstone but spent a lot of time and energy finding a good placement for a sling, then layback up to the top .. well almost the top ... as I transitioned from vertical to horizontal my strength gave up, and I watched my finger uncurl before flying outwards and downwards.
After much mirth from my companions .. back up and this time no mistakes... the rest of the climb went smoothly.
Then back to do Boterill's slab .. much simpler this time with some friction.
after this we walked to the top and down the other side back to the campsite for supper and more midge tales.
Not today, the sun was shining as we climbed up to Mickeldore, and came around the corner.
At the bottom of the climb Nick and Bryon sat purposefully down and prepared, and unknowingly of their plans I followed like a lemon ... they then set off up Central buttress.. Their plan was such that we arrived below the great flake when it was my time to lead ... My fathers old guide book talks about three on a rope and the middle person jamming themselves into the crack, but modern ties uses a layback technique .. I started off well and got to the chockstone but spent a lot of time and energy finding a good placement for a sling, then layback up to the top .. well almost the top ... as I transitioned from vertical to horizontal my strength gave up, and I watched my finger uncurl before flying outwards and downwards.
After much mirth from my companions .. back up and this time no mistakes... the rest of the climb went smoothly.
Then back to do Boterill's slab .. much simpler this time with some friction.
after this we walked to the top and down the other side back to the campsite for supper and more midge tales.
26 May 1990
Esk Buttress, Eskdale Meet
We scouted around the Meandering river for a dry(ish) patch not too far from the water supply and pitched camp.
The place offered great views of Esk buttress and also scafell and pike. as well as Bowfell at the head of the valley.
After lunch we went for a stroll to Esk buttress where we all climbed Bridgers route, except Nick and Bryon who pushed the boat out on Central Pillar with 3*s. I would pay for my comments tomorrow.
Back to camp for supper and a fight against the midges ... one of the tales after a few beers lead Christine to trying to light sheep poo to chase off the midges, whilst the rest of us contained the giggles.
13 May 1990
12 May 1990
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