24 October 2016

Grindavik, Selfoss, & Pingvallavatn

No real idea for today, so a cruise past the Blue Lagoon, so see if it would be worth a visit later in the trip, and down to the coast. From there a plan to go east and pick up the route of the golden circle tourist trap before heading north to find the hotel.

We came to the first lava field shortly after we had turned South, and stopped to have a look around.. The lava field was very old and generally the roughness wore down slightly, but it still looked like avalanche debris (only green and black. In the distance we could see the steam plumes of the vents near the Blue Lagoon and just beside the lay-by was a set of steps going down into a "lava cave".
The wind was howling around and there was a bite to it from the wind chill - definitely required the use of several layers and a windproof jacket.
Besides the road was a trail of crushed lava - we worked this out to be a new cycle route ... It looks like they are building them close to all the major roads. The full sulfurous impact of Blue Lagoon hit us as we drove past - this coupled with the astronomic entry price veered us away, and over the ridge.
The road ran down to Grindavik .. an operational port and our first view of a typical rural town/ village in Iceland. bungalows spread around the major roads, with a few shops clustered together.
Still a little early for lunch - not that my stomach cared about time, we had been going long enough - everything was yet to open. So we continued along the coast. To the east you could see the waves crashing against the black lava cliffs, as we climbed up over some ridges, and down the other side. Here the lava was much finer and lay more like large black icicles over the landscape. The road was very recently renovated, maybe even built, as it ran inland from the coast and bypassed all the villages. There were steam vents up one of the valleys (I think we could have gone to see them but I was not ready for gravel roads yet), and we passed over a causeway on the seaward side of a lake - Hlitharvatn.
Once I realized we were not able to stop near any of these items, we took a turning off to find somewhere .. This led down towards a lighthouse... and a spread out village - Strandakirkja ... the road actually led to an old church sitting on its own and a walkway up over the dune break to the sea, and boulder shore.
A windy walk along the shore for a bit reminded me that I was hungry, so the hunt for a café continued. Now we knew we had to get off the road, we took the next likely turning to a town called Porklakshofn, another fishing port.
We looked around for somewhere to stop ... every building looked similar, we eventually found a bar and bakery from the outside it all looked shut, with the lights low ... once you knew what to look for it became easier .. and the bakery was also a café .. so coffee and cake for lunch.
Back on the road we took the junction to Selfoss ... still heading for the golden circle route, but now knowing a lot more about the distances involved and the time left.
As we drove between another inland sea and the real thing we could see a viaduct ahead and pulled into a small lay-by beside the inland sea with a good view over the viaduct, a walk over some sea grass and we were on black sand ... amazing stuff - so similar to golden sand but yet looks odd.
On the other side of the road was a small track that I thought may go to the sea ... good guess and we found a pristine black sand beach, which gave Sue the opportunity to get her feet wet while I took some photos.
Back in the car and through Selfoss ... a lot busier than we had been for a long while, and we soon got on without stopping. New destination Pingvallavatn ... and a part of the circle route.
Rising up the valley ... it initially looked out over a flat plain - very green and lush farmland, as we turned up north and the valley tightened it looked much more like Scotland or the lake district. It then opened into a wide valley again.
More by chance than anything else we pulled into a car park for a hydro dam ... we had seen the waterfall coming off it, but once in we were tempted by the free exhibition. Good details around the physics involved as well as the engineering - even the coffee was free.
Continuing up the road, which disappeared into the clouds as it got higher ... not very high in meters but enough for Iceland.
Pingvallavatn all around the lake we just caught glimpses, and even the entry into the national park did not show much.
Around the meeting of the tectonic plates and the large coach car park did not look inviting. However just up the road climbing the other side there was an innocuous lay-by which promised a view over the lake between the clouds.
There were a number of cars in the area, but very few people ... so we soon found a footpath leading over to the cliff edge, and what turned out to be a trail down into a deep gorge ... damp in the rain and slippy, but promising ... The scenery was tremendous, and the trail then met a lower path which was more like a boardwalk and led to a waterfall. A great unexpected bonus.
Back in the car we continued along the road above the Pingvallavatn lake, pausing to get some pictures when the cloud parted.
The road went up between two mountains and seemed to follow a pass over towards the Hvalfjordur inland sea water lake or fjord.
Driving carefully on the gravel I was glad there was not much coming the other way as the road seemed to only have one well used route through the potholes.
As we reached Porufoss near the top of the pass we entered a section of roadworks and some deep muddy quagmire in the temporary road .. Here I was glad we had a 4x4.
All the way we had snow lying beside the road and the temp was hovering around zero degrees. We picked up the river going down the other side and watched as it grew in size and intensity, before our attention was drawn to steam vents on the other side.
We arrived at a road junction ... I had seen on the map a "short-cut" to avoid the trip to Reykjavik and out again and also bypassed the tunnel and tolls. We turned down this, and within a quarter of a mile this had turned to gravel .. no backing out now.
Before long we were approaching the fjord, with good views out across the still water towards where our hotel should be...
Once again back on tarmac as we picked up the road around the fjord, driving became easier.
Before the end as the sun had come out for us there was a waterfall (Sjavarfoss) looking out to the lake, which prompted a stop.
Then it was back driving around the lake and finding the road to the hotel.
Hotel Glymur, situated up a track above the fjord circumnavigation road. A big pink building, in the Scandinavian style... We had a room (or suite) overlooking the lake.
Big patio doors from a seating area, leading out to the hot tubs just down from the hotel.
We ate in the hotel as we did not want to drive to find anything else ... a very stark reminder of the prices in Iceland (£7 for a beer). However the food was excellent and we were only there for a short break.