22 March 2026

Pumlumon Fawr, Source of the river Wye

The weather was on the change... the sunny days of this week were changing with a colder northerly wind, bringing showers. To make the most of the better weather, Sue and I went for a walk to reach the source of the river Wye up at the border of Powys and Ceredigion.
My idea was to park at Eisteddfa Gurig, and walk up the trail to Pumlumon Fawr, then along the ridge line before dropping down the valley marked on the map as the source. Down through the mine workings (along the start of the Wye valley trail), before splitting off to return over the moors to the car park.

We parked at the farm (paying our £5 - we could have parked down the road for free and walked up but the road was very busy). Then headed off through the farm yard to select the ascent route.
We climbed up the byway track leading to a pair of masts on the skyline. The alternative was more direct but a steeper climb.
On reaching the woods (Dyll Faen) we left the byway and continued on the track as it circumvented the woods.
The track led to the two aerials, and the wind got stronger as we approached the skyline. Behind us the morning mist was still hanging around.


On reaching the skyline the track stopped (it just serviced the aerials) and a footpath continued along the ridgeline.
We followed the ridgeline along over all the bumps and hollows up to the cairn and trig point on the summit.
the clouds lifted as we got there, but the wind persisted.
Looking West over Nant-y-moch reservoir
East and down the Wye valley.
The ridge continued, with a drop down to a saddle.
Then up the other side to a second top (and cairn). At this point the original plan was to drop down the ridge heading south but there was a fence with barbed wire along the top.


We followed the fence line as it continued along the ridge towards Pen Pumlumon Arwystli.
Just before the summit we found a gate through the fence, and this allowed us to descend the next ridge heading in the required direction.
We followed this broad back as it dropped down over very tussocky grass slopes.
I could see the start of the Wye valley trail below and headed for it - by then diverted to make the descent easier along the tops of the ridge.
Once down on the trail we reached an easier footpath.
The trail then zigzagged around the head of a small valley filled with old mine working (Silver and Lead). Now on a gravel road.
We followed the road down the valley towards some buildings below. At one gate things became clearer as it warned of Rally cross special stages.
The buildings were some kind of base for rally and motocross.
A little further down the road we came to the point where our desired path left the road (over a Ford - needing to be waded across).
Then on up a further gravel road - still part of the rally complex.
We followed the road around a shoulder, before an old and rickety stile showed where we needed to diverge.
The map and the path disagreed here, but we followed the path down to the stream and over a wobbly bridge.
Next the path kind of followed the stream for a while - not very clear, then climbed up some greasy rocks.
At this point I lost the track and we followed a sheep trail until I realised.
Cutting back up the slope, brought us back onto the path. Luckily the slope eased off as we reached the path.
Behind was a network of gravel tracks - the rally circuits as well as the old mine workings.
Across another gravel road - not heading our way unfortunately - and we crossed over a shoulder to look down into the valley with the car park.
Here was newly planted with conifers, but also lots of waterlogged holes.
A traversing descent brought us down into the valley on what did not seem like a well used path. The final section was across a wide reed bed - here the grass reeds had died back and covered all the pitfalls and we had to negotiate carefully across.
Finally back down to the road (A44) and a short - but hazardous (due to the speeding traffic and especially motorbikes) - walk back to the car park.