Chapelle de la Gliere, Chamonix

So after a day of travelling we were settled into the back end of a campsite near Les Praz, the Argentierre one being full. Ideal for the Index cable car, but a really tight squeeze.

The next day the weather was kind and we had bright sun. We took the first cable car we could and headed up into the Aiguilles Rouge, and specifically for the Chapelle de la Gliere … I had seen this from the Index the year before and was intrigued enough to want to go back to it.

The hike around from the top lift was simple, but finding the start was more troublesome, however soon we were heading up the first pitch towards the ridge with fantastic views back down the valley. Not long before we were heading across the roof of the nave on a very sharp edge with some classic shots against the sky line.

After this airey traverse we were then climbing up the spire.. a very traditional tower climb. The top was roomy enough for us and the previous party, but moving around required coordinated action.

The route down was several abseils onto the col then a traverse onto the step behind the index. From here it was simple to get back to the cable car.

We were racing time to reach the chair lift and only just made it in tie .. then down to the cable car and luckily that was running late too so we made it without having to walk all the way down.

The Index

Travel Day, Switzerland

Checking the weather out, it was not getting any better, so like the previous year we debated what to do and packed everything in the cars heading for Chamonix. This made sense as we could do day routes there rather than wait for a clear period.

We drove around to Chamonix in convoy and first tried to find space in the argentiere camp-site before setting once again for the mer de glace site. Once again it was packed out and we were all crowded together into one bay.

Reconaisance, Switzerland

The next day the weather turned and it was generally overcast with squalls of rain. From this perspective it was not good to be high, so we settled for some exploring. We had not been up the Saas Fee valley next one East, so it seemed like a good idea to check out the area, campsites and general facilities. This would help us in later years when we were to return, however for now it was good to just wander around and be a tourist.

Rest day, Switzerland

The following day we were still feeling the effects of the long day before … so we set about having a very relaxing time, plenty of liquids and lots of calorie rich food. At the same time it was a good opportunity to dry out all our gear, which was suffering from the hot days.

Chris and Bryon returned later, as did Nobby and Sarah (forget where they had been), and regaled us with tales from the Matterhorn - they had found a very similar experience, but had caught the cable car down.

Matterhorn, Switzerland

The morning arrived, and we headed straight out onto the ridge, using the exploration of the night before to navigate a good route. Looking back we could see the other parties coming out… the guided ones in the front – it appears that the hotel was slightly ahead of the hut in its timing to their advantage. We were chased all the way up the ridge to the Solvay hut by the leading parties, and eventually the first one overtook us. Taking a quick breather, we had some great views down the valley as the sun was coming up.

The next difficulty was the snow field under the top rock steps … at this time it was well frozen and proved to be a simple step climb. Then we were into the fixed ropes on the steep rock steps… general practice here is to use the rope only as an aid, because hauling on it will drain the energy and causes you to not use your feet properly. However as you are feeling quite drained already and it is very steep, you soon end up hauling.

The summit was all you would expect from a great peak… we went across to the Italian side, just so that we had been to both ends.
We spent quite a time on the top just marvelling at the views, before down climbing the fixed ropes – saved an abseil.

At the snow field we caught up with several Italian parties, all charging up at the same time … the ropes were knitted and lots of chat going on. We just sat by the top belay spike and let the games play out, once they were past us it was clear the "nice" frozen snow from the morning was now really broken up so we resorted to a couple of quick abseils. Before long we were back at the Solvay hut … not a nice place to hang around, and is really an emergency shelter only.

The way down the bottom half was much more complicated when facing downwards and looking at the multiple tracks – essentially in the morning we had followed up just to the left of the ridge, but now everywhere was a complex puzzle.

Eventually we ended up back at the Hornli hut. Similar time as the day before, so we had plenty of time to wonder at the route and how rewarding it had been. Amongst the tourists coming up were Bryon and Chris, they had been on the Zinal Rothorn and the Obergabelhorn the days before and we had left before they returned. A quick catch up and to pass on the information we had learned in the last day or so, and we started off down the valley.
With money tight again, we elected to walk all the way down to the valley – in hind sight again as with last year..  it was much, much further than we expected and we should have caught the cable car, and saved our feet. However as things turned out it did not matter.

Hornli Hut, Switzerland

The next day we prepared to go up to the Hornli hut, and set out early. First the train from Tasch to Zermatt, then the cable car up to Schwartzsee, and follow the ridge up to the hut.

The track was fairly busy with tourists, for whom the hut was the closest they would get to the mountain. We quickly arrived at the hut, which was closed until later in the day, and the main service was coming from the "Berg hotel" next door. However this gave us an opportunity to drop the packs and explore the initial route up the ridge, especially good as people were constantly coming down. The mountain is very close and essentially the route is away from the start.

As the day drew in the hut opened and we checked in… there was some strange practices going on… the locally guided parties were in the Berg Hotel and the rest of us in the hut, but outside everyone mingled and watched the sun go down, and the helicopter supply, which was still an event at this time rather than the norm it would become over the years.

As everyone went to bed, Alan and I decided we would be up and out early, getting on to the route before anyone else was up. This meant getting up 60 mins before everyone else - we would not have hot water in the morning, but making sure we had plenty of "Heiss wasser" the night before would give us some stocks.

We were proved right the next day, the guided parties were all away 30 mins before the self sufficient teams.

Rest Day, Switzerland

A rest day gave us time to take stock; Brian and Chris were still up at the Rothorn hut, and we were anticipating the good weather to continue. Fun was had in the campsite when a strange vehicle arrived …. Later in the night it transformed with a tent on the roof.

Little did I know t the time much later I would purchase a VW camper with a lift up roof that had a bed in it  ...  must have been fate!

Alphubel, Switzerland

Waking up with little after effects from the day before, and the mood was further enhanced by looking outside. Another great day, the nip from the overnight frost still in the air, as we set off around the end of the Western ridge heading for the Rotgrat.

We reached the crest of the ridge as the light was just coming through the darkness, allowing us to see the ridge stretching out in front of us. This did look very Scottish, and indeed the first few nobbles were very reminiscent of some classic scrambling routes.

As we headed up we reached the snow field, this brought some change to the scrambling as we put crampons on and walked up the corniced edge. The sting in the tail of this ridge was just ahead with a couple of rock steps – not difficult, but massive exposure.

The last gentle slopes lead up to the summit – a large flat area with great views both ways along the ridge – toward the Taschorn and Dom one way and Monte Rosa the other. We sat in the sun and waited for Nobby and Sarah to follow us up, marvelling in the fact that I was feeling no adverse effects from the days before.

The descent was down the South ridge back to the Alphubeljoch, initially quite steep, but with just sufficient snow to make it uneventful (there was one area where the thin soft snow made it necessary to caution). Going back to the hut, there was plenty of time to gaze up to the ridge and see the route up and reflect on a great day.

From the hut it was time to retreat back to the campsite, and now feeling much better, the thought of the long walk out was not as frightening as it had been the day before.

Allalainhorn, Switzerland

The next morning we were up early, heading for the Allalainhorn no real route finding issues, just up the glacier behind the hut to the col, along the ridge working the way to the peak. It is only just over 4,000m and would seem like a good warm-up route.

Alan and I headed up the glacier, and had some really good views of the sun coming up first over the Matterhorn, then the Breithorn. As we go towards the col, the slope got steeper, and I was starting to feel the effects of the day before. By the time we had struggled up to the col, I was in desperate need of a long rest. A long drink and few snacks did not have much of an effect, so by the time Nobby and Sarah had arrived I was of the opinion that this was to be the limit of my achievements this day. Alan went on with the others, and I settled in for an extended stay.

The route went along to the top of the ridge, and then dropped down to the Allalainjoch before the summit peak. The ridge was quite friable, and steeply down, followed by a couple of gendarmes – not difficult, but I still think that I would have delayed everyone and suffered more the following day.

Waiting was difficult, but I did not want to head back over the glacier after the issues earlier in my alpine experiences, and also because I had made arrangements to wait there. Still it gave me some experience digging a snow hole.

Much later than I had calculated I saw then coming up the ridge, it had been a little more difficult and longer than they had thought. We then strolled back to the hut, without incident.

That night there was much soul searching and was concerned about what was to happen the next day. Gladly I decided to sleep on it. Eventually many years later I would reach the summit, although on skis and from the Saas Fee side.

Tasch Hutte, Switzerland

Off to the Tasch Hutte - with a view to climb a couple of peaks using it as the base. Not knowing the landscape nor wanting to leave a car with all our worldly goods parked out in the open, we left it at the campsite and walked up to the hut … I was not as fit as the previous year, and the day was to turn out to have consequences.

The approach went up the tracks cutting through all the zigzags of the road, and then along the hanging valley floor, eventually catching up with the road head at Staffelti. There were a number of cars parked up here and ours would have been safe enough. From here there was a jeep track straight(ish) to the hut. By now the sun was high in the sky and the temperature was climbing… we were walking in shorts and tee-shirts and had all the mountain gear loaded on our backs like juggernauts … even so it was beginning to take its toll on me. I later (years later) realised that this was probably de-hydration, however at this time I was just getting slower and needed more time.

The hut was a really welcome sight and I remember taking my pack off and feeling as if floating. After sticking my head in a water trough and cooling off somewhat it was time to enjoy the fantastic vista.

Later on we recce'd the route for the next day, and settled into our pasta and bits – the wardens in these days would cook you food for you if it was simple enough, but you did have to go at their times.

1989 Summer Mountaineering Trip, Switzerland

1988, and I was back in Tasch. Dave was out in the Himalayas, so I was here with different people. After the exploits of the previous year we had fired up several members of the climbing club to come out and expand their horizons.
I was climbing with Alan; Nobby with Sarah, and Bryon with Chris.
Alan, and I together with Sarah and Nobby would start off together basing ourselves at the Tasch hut, whereas Byron and Chris, would head off for the Rothorn hut. 

Trip Time Line

	|
	|	Arrive Tasch
Tasch Hut	|
	|	Allalainhorn
Alphubel	|
	|	Rest Day
Hornli Hut	|
	|	Matterhorn
Rest Day	|
	|	Reconnaissance Day
Travel Day	|
	|	Chapelle de la Gliere
Go Home	|